WELCOME TO ANOTHER BIT OF INPUT from me to you regarding artisan (Druid Style) cannabis growth; I’m The Rev – “REvski” – and along with information gleaned by myself regarding when flushing works, and when you don’t need it at all, I’m also going to share an old synthetic flushing trick that we used to use 30 years ago when we cropped hydroponics style using pure synthetics. These days I grow all natural (Supernatural TLO) style and the only bottles I have are molasses, fish emulsion, and Big Bloom, and I use all of them in the tiniest amounts in teas, and not very often. Let’s start out with the old synthetic flushing trick first, buckle up amigos—and away we go


Best Flushing Trick Ever, If You Grow Using Synthetics

Alrightythen; we discovered this trick long ago, and at the time we were trying to let a broken branch off a flowering plant finish in a vase of water. Since it only had like another week to go we thought we could do it like that. First of all, it did not finish in a week—it would have taken two, at least—but, the thing we really noticed was how wicked smooth the smoke was after that, with way less of ‘that burn’ in the back of your throat; that always accompanies all synthetic grown cannabis, in my experience. So, let me run it down to you now, the methodology.

First of all, you will harvest your plants on time as you normally would, don’t harvest early. Take either the whole plant, or branches, or both. You just need to be able to submerge the base of the cut stem underwater; just like you were rooting a cutting in a glass of water for example but on a larger scale, you savvy? Personally, growing plants that finish between 2.5-3 feet in height, I like to take whole plants, cutting the main stem at soil level. I use your basic 5-gallon buckets as “vases” for them. I have done this with larger plants outdoors using big plastic trashcans as vases. For smaller branches just use whatever size vase is appropriate. Cut the stem base at a slight angle, but not sharply at an angle.

RULE 1: When plants are in the vases you need them to also still be under decent lighting but not intense lighting, and kept warm—warm is good (70-80 degrees F. is perfection); and, air circulation & air exchange must be active. If outdoors use no full sun if in trashcan sized “vases”. Use dappled or filtered sunlight, never direct sunlight. Humidity around 40-60% is perfect. To accomplish this in our indoor grow rooms we would simply place the 5-gallon buckets (vases) in the growing room, but not actually under any lights; indirect intense lighting is good.

RULE 2: Keep them in these vases for one full week (7 to 10 days) in the environmental conditions I stated in rule 1 above; then, process as you normally would. Do not trim many of the big leaves off your plants before putting them in the vases, these leaves are essential to the processes at work, helping the plant to “breathe” (transpire) and metabolize in greater volume, expelling or processing much more of the metals/salts that cause the harshness.

RULE 3: Use distilled, rain, or reverse osmosis filtered water only! When filling the vases, you want to keep at least 5 or 6 inches of depth to the submerged stem bases, underwater (more is fine). For smaller branches, obviously less depth is needed. You want your water to be almost void of any bonded elements, and a PPM value of less than 15 is what I would highly recommend here. That way as the water absorbed and travels through the plant, it will bond with some of the crap you want out of there, and it will be “exhaled” by the plants, via transpiration; as well as some of the crap (excesses that cause harshness) being processed by the plants.

NOTE: The word ‘crap’ translates to: salts/metals/elements/nutrients, for the purposes of the resulting smoking quality, in this article.


RULE 4: You cannot allow it to get too cold, or too hot, or too humid; think Goldilocks and the 3 Bears. The plants may wilt if the environment is too intense compared to what their metabolisms can maintain. If they wilt you need to dial down their environment like lower temps, higher humidity, or less lighting; or any combo of those. And then give them 24 hours to get turgor again (recover from wilting).

NOTE: To be perfectly clear, this trick is an addition to, and not a replacement for, your normal traditional flushing procedures when growing, using synthetics.



You will be stunned by the results. We kept this trick a big fat secret for years, and since we were croppers, our cannabis stood out big by any comparison to other synthetic grown herbs, because there was a highly noticeable smooth quality to the smoke no one else could attain. We have always lollypop-trimmed up our plants before the start of flowering cycle at the same time we transplanted into flowering containers; and this practice really lends itself well to this style of flushing.


When to Flush & When You Don’t Have the Need

Let me start with saying, that flushing your plants at the end of their lives, before harvesting won’t do any harm I am aware of; however, if you understand what you are doing, and even more importantly what you are not doing when flushing, things become clearer. I get so many emails about flushing where peeps are confused about what they are doing, so ponder my wisdom here and see what you think. All flushing should be done using either rain, distilled, or reverse osmosis filtered water.

Flushing is, simply pouring a lot of fresh water through your containers leaching out excess elements, and as a rule of thumb as far as ratios of water to container size, it is at least double. So, in a 1 gallon container you would use at least 2 gallons of fresh water to run through it. Flushing can be done for three reasons: maintenance, finishing, and fixing. For a finishing flush, you want to flush it as I say above, every time they need watering, for the last 10 days or so of their lives before harvest. For maintaining or fixing, a single flush usually does the trick when done correctly. Maintenance flushing is usually done every 15 to 30 days depending on levels of accumulations.

NOTE: To fine-tune the effect you are looking for here, I would recommend 3x (triple) the water to container volume, and I would pour half the water through, wait 30 minutes and then flush through the second half.


Here’s when you should consider flushing:

  • When you are using harder (higher PPM value) water, and/or using a regiment of liquid organic nutrients—MAINTENANCE
  • When you see signs of toxic salt levels in the larger leaves—FIXING
  • When the pH seems to have gone off the rails for no reason—FIXING
  • If you use a lot of high PPM teas—MAINTENANCE
  • If you use synthetic nutrients growing in containers, especially with soil—MANTENANCE
  • If you accidentally overdose your plants with some kind of liquid nutrient solution and I would use larger amounts of flushing water in this case—FIXING
  • If you use regular additions of “normal/recommended” amounts of molasses and or kelp liquid or extractMAINTENANCE
  • If you are within the last 10 to 15 days before harvesting and use either synthetic, or organic chelated liquid nutrients in solutions or teas—FINISHING

Properly grown pure white cannabis ash speaks volumes to quality

The effects of a good flush to fix things can be seen pretty fast, and normally within a week max your plants will be mucho happier. If you grow using an all-natural organic soil mix, and you are at least mostly “off the bottles” and use purer water sources, there is absolutely no need for you to flush, ever, unless you are fixing something you did wrong. Simply stated, there is nothing to flush. Full stop. Adios for now my green friends, see ya on the flipside, REvski out.